In my opinion, the Albanian Alps are one of the most underrated parts of Europe – but planning my itinerary there was a bit of a headache, initially!
With some information not readily available online, I had to dig into locals’ forums and groups for weeks.
Now, I will save you the trouble of going through the same! Keep reading this comprehensive guide for the perfect 4-day hiking itinerary in the Albanian Alps.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links for products or services that I personally endorse and love. Should you make a purchase, I may make a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting Jess Eats The World!
When to go to the Albanian Alps?
The climate in the Albanian Alps (formally called the Accursed Mountains) is colder and wetter than other parts of Albania, mainly due to the high altitude.
It’s dangerous to hike in the Albanian Alps between mid-October and June due to heavy snowfall and rain, making many roads and trails not accessible due to avalanche risk.
The best times to visit the Albanian Alps for hiking are in early- and late-summer (throughout June and from September to early October). This is when the weather is drier and generally more pleasant.
Summer is always a great time for hiking, though temperatures can surpass 30 degrees Celsius in July and August. When hiking in the summer, it’s important to start early to try and beat the hottest hours of the day.
Want to plan your trip to Albania like a pro?
From planning to exploring and anything in between – like you’ve been there before!
My guides include access to my private Albania map with 250+ points!
Is hiking in Albania safe? Can I hike solo?
It is absolutely safe to hike solo in the trails mentioned in this Albanian Alps itinerary. These are the most popular trails in Albania, and there will always be plenty of other hikers around during the summer.
If you go hiking solo, always stick to the main trails, which are clearly marked. This is for general safety reasons, and also because the National Park is home to wild animals such as bears, wolves, and snakes.
How difficult are the hikes in the Albanian Alps?
We’ll cover three main popular hikes in the Albanian Alps: the Grunas waterfall and the Blue Eye hikes in Theth, and the Valbona Pass hike.
You can do an easy, mostly-flat hike in Theth between the town centre and the car park before the ascent to the last portion of the Blue Eye trail. The Grunas waterfall and the Blue Eye hikes are moderate, due to their steep ascents which can be especially challenging in hot weather.
The Valbona Pass hike is a moderately-difficult hike. The main challenges of this hike are the steepness, elevation gain, and length. Nonetheless, the hike is completely worth it and a very rewarding experience with beautiful sights.
The highlight for me was the hiking community in the Albanian Alps – we encountered hikers from all ages cheering each other on in very good spirits!
The Perfect 4-day Albanian Alps Hiking Itinerary: A Circular Route
The Albanian Alps can be visited as a circular route itinerary, meaning you start and end at the same place – Shkodër.
This route features the best hikes in the Albanian Alps, including the very popular Valbona Pass hike. It also includes sightseeing through Komani Lake and a visit to the remote Shala River (Lumi i Shalës) to make the most of your travel day to or from Valbona.
The itinerary takes 4 days in total, of which are 2 days of hiking. This is perfect for non-frequent hikers or for those just getting started, and can be done as part of a wider Albania travel itinerary.
At the end, I will also include suggestions for other hikes you can do if you’d like to extend your hiking trip in the Albanian Alps.
Which direction should I do the Albanian Alps hiking circular route?
You can do either direction easily by following this circular route guide. The main difference will be the order of activities and the direction of the Valbona Pass hike.
I personally did the Theth-Valbona route and I think this is the best route by the order of activities. You start early in Theth with a couple of easy-to-moderate hikes, embark on the more difficult hike next, and finish with sightseeing and some relaxing sunbathing by the river.
Doing it the other way around means starting with the “resting” portion of the trip, jumping onto the more difficult hike, and then potentially running out of energy for the last hikes in Theth.
Theth to Valbona or Valbona to Theth – which direction is more difficult?
Regarding the difficulty of each direction of the Valbona Pass hike, the differences are not too significant.
The Theth-Valbona direction is much steeper for the first half of the hike. This direction will take a bit longer because there is no option to take a taxi for the last section when arriving in Valbonë, adding a few miles walking.
The Valbona-Theth direction allows you to skip a section of the hike by taking a 4×4 taxi to the start of the trail. The first half of the hike is less steep but much longer, while the second half of the journey downhill to Theth is easier but puts more strain on the knees.
Day 1: Arriving in Shkodër
On day one, you’ll arrive in Shkodër to stay overnight, leave your large luggage, and arrange transport for the morning.
You can get to Shkodër by car, bus, or minibus directly from Tirana Airport, Tirana city center, or other Albanian towns like Krujë or Durrës.
You can arrange transportation to Theth through your accommodation the night before. They can sort out tickets for you, either on a minibus transporting multiple travellers, or a private driver in a 4×4.
Alternatively, you can pre-book via this website. Prices range from EUR €8-€12 per person.
If you’re following the Valbona-Theth route direction, make sure to pre-book your Koman – Shala river – Fierzë boat journey as well. You can buy this ticket here.
You will also need to buy onward transport to Valbonë from Fierzë, which you can book here. You will be dropped off at your accommodation in Valbonë.
It’s also common for travellers to leave their larger luggage at their accommodation in Shkodër while travelling in the Albanian Alps.
Because the Valbona Pass hike is a one-way journey, you will have to carry your necessary belongings in your backpack with you. Make sure to pack as light as possible. Hotels and hostels will usually keep your luggage for free, or for a small fee.
What should I pack for the Albanian Alps?
Pack a backpack with essential clothing items (underwear, hiking socks, light overnight clothes), toiletries, some snacks, and water.
If you’re a beginner hiker, don’t worry too much about technical gear. Pack light, comfortable, and breathable clothes. Many gym sets, shorts, leggings, tops, etc. do the job.
However, good hiking boots with a strong grip are essential, and trekking poles can also be helpful for the Valbona Pass hike in particular.
I recommend bringing a hat/cap and a light t-shirt for protection from the sun, and a light rain jacket for the mountain weather. A hoodie or a sweater is also useful in the evenings.
Where to stay in Shkodër
For our first night in Shkodër, I booked a simple but quaint boutique hotel in the town centre called Atelier Boutique Hotel.
The rooms were clean and affordable, and the hotel is located above the restaurant from the same owners. The host arranged for our transport with pick-up from the hotel the next morning, and they also kept our luggage for us.
Other accommodation I also recommend in Shkodër:
Budget ($)
Mi Casa es Tu Casa
This is one of the most popular hostels to stay in Shkodër for its central location just off the city’s main roads and close to the bus stops.
Mid-Range ($$)
ODA Aparthotel Shkodër
We also stayed at this Aparthotel on our last night in Shkodër. It was simple yet clean, with self-check-in. It’s well-located along the main road, so you can easily walk to the bus stop.
Mid-Range ($$)
TRIBUTE Hotel
This hotel fits more into the typical mid-range style, so it’s a good option if you want that. It’s a bit more removed from the centre but only a 10-minute walk from the bus stop.
ATTENTION: In this guide, we will detail the Albanian Alps itinerary in the Theth-Valbona direction. If you’re following the inverse direction of Valbona-Theth, scroll down to here and follow the guide in reverse order (scrolling up).
Day 2: Transport to Theth + the Grunas Waterfall and Blue Eye Hikes
This is where the adventure begins!
On this day, you’ll set off early from Shkodër to Theth, arriving in time to check into your hotel and embark on a full day of hiking on one or both of Theth’s most popular trails.
Getting from Shkodër to Theth
Transport from Shkodër to Theth usually takes 2 hours. Historically, this journey was known to have one of the most dangerous roads in the world, but it has since been paved and it’s no longer as challenging.
Our hotel booked us a driver in a 4×4, who picked us up at 7 AM and drove us to Theth with a couple breaks on the way for coffee and fruit.
The Grunas Waterfall Hike
The Grunas Waterfall is the shorter hike you can do in Theth, and it can be combined with the Blue Eye hike, as it shares the same starting section.
This hike takes 1.5-2 hours to complete round-trip, including breaks for photos and snacks.
It’s a hike of easy-to-moderate difficulty, mainly because it requires climbing some rocky sections to access the waterfall in its second half.
The first half of the hike is comprised of leisurely and easy walking along the river and across the valley.
The trail is generally signposted, but in the summer you can just follow the other hikers (click here for coordinates to the waterfall).
At the top of the trail, you will be rewarded with a view to the 30-meter high waterfall, which often creates a rainbow from the spraying water droplets on sunny days.
Many people choose to refresh themselves in the pond at the bottom of the waterfall, or sit on the rocks admiring its sight.
The Blue Eye Hike
The Blue Eye trail is the most popular hike in Theth, and it’s a great way to spend a full day hiking and taking in the scenery of the Theth National Park.
Most people start the hike in the town centre of Theth, but you can also skip the first section of the hike and take a taxi to the second trailhead (click for coordinates), at the car park before the ascent to the Blue Eye itself.
If you do the Grunas Waterfall hike, you can pick up the trail from the river crossing at the bottom of the descent from the waterfall trail (click for coordinates). I recommend hiking along the east side of the river (opposite the main road).
The best navigation tool option is the app Maps.me. It works incredibly well in Albania and you can also use it offline, which is a big plus!
For online navigation tools, don’t forget that EU roaming plans don’t work in Albania! I used an eSIM from Airalo which worked perfectly in the Albanian Alps, and was very convenient and easy to use from the moment we landed at the airport.
Use this link to get a discount on your Airalo eSIM (use code “NEWTOAIRALO15” for 15% off for new customers, and code “AIRALOESIM10” for 10% off for existing customers!)
The Blue Eye hike usually takes 5-7 hours round-trip.
If you add the Grunas Waterfall hike to this (an additional 1-2 hours), you can skip the return on foot. Share a taxi back to the town centre of Theth from the car park (click for coordinates), after climbing down the trail from the Blue Eye.
The hike is of moderate difficulty due to the challenging ascent in the last 45 minutes before reaching the Blue Eye (click for location coordinates).
There are a couple cafes along the way before the second trailhead, where you can stop to get refreshments. Though, as they’re small businesses, there is a risk that they may not always be open.
Make sure to pack water, snacks, sunscreen, and swimwear, as you can swim in the Blue Eye as a reward for the journey (though, at 10ºC, it’s a matter of how long you can actually stay in the water!).
Where to stay in Theth
When staying in Theth I booked a lovely room at Bujtina Miqësia for our stay.
We stayed at one of the rooms facing the back of the guesthouse with a view facing the mountains, but there is also a room with a bathtub and view facing the Theth river, which is particularly lovely in shoulder season.
The guesthouse hosts were the loveliest people ever, and the breakfast was local and plentiful. They also kindly prepared us a packed lunch for our Valbona Pass hike the next morning.
They also serve dinner at the guesthouse, and we ended up eating there for convenience. However, I found it a little overpriced and we couldn’t choose the dishes, which is not ideal for people with any kind of dietary restrictions.
I would recommend looking around other guesthouses in town, as many take in non-guests for dinner.
Other accommodation I also recommend in Theth:
Budget ($)
Guest House Rrashkadoli
This hostel is the perfect choice for solo travellers and backpackers embarking on the big hike to Valbonë, as the location is closer to the Valbona Pass trailhead.
Boutique ($$$)
Vidis Chalet Boutique Hotel
This is another triangle-shaped chalet, with rooms and a terrace boasting stunning views over the Theth mountains. This hotel is located up the road away from Theth’s town centre, so it’s better suited for those with a rental car.
Premium ($$$)
Villa Ujëvara e vogël
This accommodation is ideal for those looking for a more modern feel and a little luxury. It’s also a great option for families, as you can book an entire villa for up to 4 people, and the location is on a quieter part of Theth, yet close to the trails and with beautiful views.
Camping in Theth
You can also choose to camp in Theth, because free and wild camping is legal in Albania!
If you want to maintain some comfort, many guesthouses in Theth allow tents in their gardens for a small fee. This is great because you also get access to the guesthouse’s facilities.
Day 3: The Valbona Pass hike
After a full day of moderate hiking with great views and a good night’s rest in Theth, the effort increases for a full day of moderate-to-difficult hiking in the Valbona Pass.
Given the duration of the hike, I recommend setting off from your accommodation early (between 7-9 AM) to avoid the hottest hours of the day.
Don’t forget to bring a packed lunch for your hike – there are only a couple cafes for refreshments along the way, and due to the remote location, there’s never a guarantee that they will be open or serving food.
The best navigation tool option is the app Maps.me. It works incredibly well in Albania and you can also use it offline, which is a big plus!
For online navigation tools, don’t forget that EU roaming plans don’t work in Albania! I used an eSIM from Airalo which worked perfectly in the Albanian Alps, and was very convenient and easy to use from the moment we landed at the airport.
Use this link to get a discount on your Airalo eSIM (use code “NEWTOAIRALO15” for 15% off for new customers, and code “AIRALOESIM10” for 10% off for existing customers!)
Do I need a guide for hiking in the Albanian Alps?
It’s not necessary to hike with a guide in the Albanian Alps, unless there is still snow in the mountains, which makes hiking conditions especially challenging and risky.
You can certainly find guided tours, as we saw a few groups hiking together with guides. Normally, guided hiking tours last several days, and you can find some available ones here.
Where to stay in Valbonë
Valbonë is a very small town, and much sleepier than Theth. Most guesthouses are located alongside the main road where hikers arrive at, and this is the preferred place to stay.
I stayed at this guesthouse, which was well-located on the main road and with beautiful mountain views from our room.
The stay included a delicious local breakfast, and they also prepare packed lunches if requested in advance the night before.
Other accommodation I also recommend in Valbonë:
Mid-Range ($$)
Guest house Hyrmet Demushi
This is a great option for those looking to stay as close to the Valbona Pass trailhead as possible. It’s also a bonus that the accommodation is very unique and nestled in the forest, with family rooms able to accommodate up to 6 people!
Mid-Range ($$)
Villas Jezerca
This accommodation is especially perfect for families or groups, as you can book individual holiday homes (bungalows) for up to 4 people each. The location is very central and close to the trailheads.
Camping in Valbonë
You can also choose to camp in Valbonë, because free and wild camping is legal in Albania!
If you want to maintain some comfort, many guesthouses in Valbonë allow tents in their gardens for a small fee. This is great because you also get access to the guesthouse’s facilities.
Food and drink in Valbonë
Our guesthouse didn’t have a restaurant, so we had to look for food spots around town.
I didn’t expect Valbonë to be such a tiny village, and in all truthfulness, the food options here are not great. There are only a handful restaurants (or guesthouses serving meals), and many of them have poor reviews including many food poisoning stories.
We had dinner at this restaurant, which seemed like the better option nearby. We really couldn’t complain about our meal and service there, but I would recommend lowering your expectations for food in Valbonë.
Day 4: Valbone to Shala River (Lumi i Shalës) and back to Shkodër by boat and bus
Finally, after all the hiking effort of the last days, you will move on to a beautiful journey through Komani Lake and optionally add a sunbathing stop at Shala River (Lumi I Shalës), known as “the Thailand of Albania”.
ATTENTION: In this guide, we detail the Albanian Alps itinerary in the Theth-Valbona direction. If you’re following the inverse direction, click here and follow the instructions to book tickets from Shkodër to Valbonë.
How to book the journey from Valbonë to Shala River (Lumi i Shalës)?
I highly recommend including the Shala River (Lumi i Shalës) as part of your Albanian Alps itinerary, so you can make the most out of this travelling day on your way back to Shkodër. It’s quite a remote place, so it just makes sense to stop by while you’re here!
From Valbonë, you can book this tour which will take you to Shala River (Lumi i Shalës) and then onwards to Shkodër, arriving around 6 PM. You’ll ride along Komani Lake and have about 4 hours to sunbathe at Shala River (Lumi i Shalës).
How to book the journey from Valbonë to Shkodër?
If you want to skip the Shala River (Lumi i Shalës) stop, you can buy transport tickets from this provider.
You should buy the Fierze to Koman (+pick up) ticket, and select both the Valbonë – Fierze and the Koman – Shkodër transport pick up services at checkout. You’ll arrive in Shkodër around 5:30 PM.
Because you won’t arrive in Shkodër much earlier than if you were to include the Shala River (Lumi i Shalës) stop, I’d only advise skipping it if you’re on a tighter budget.
Albanian Alps: Frequently Asked Questions
Last thoughts
In my opinion, the Albanian Alps are one of Europe’s best-kept secrets, and I hope my 4-day itinerary helps you make the most of this magical destination!
If you don’t have enough time to enjoy this beautiful part of the country, you can also consider a day trip from Tirana (it will be a long day, but you won’t miss out on hiking in this wonderful region):
Looking to hike in the Albanian Alps? Pin this itinerary to save it for later!
