With Albania’s rise in popularity, you’re probably reading this post while planning a trip to this emerging hot European destination. In my opinion, driving is the best way to see all the beauty that Albania has to offer, but I also know you’ve probably read stories that made you second-guess this decision!
I’ve written this guide as this was the main concern I got from people when I shared my southern Albania road trip itinerary on Instagram. Many say that driving in Albania is flat out dangerous, but I don’t fully agree with this alarmist approach – and I wouldn’t want anyone to miss out on an incredible trip without further information!
I’m here to share all my tips and experience with you after visiting the country twice, and hopefully help ease your worries a little!
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Quick tip: I rented a car in Albania with Enterprise and had a good experience with pick-up and drop-off in different locations. Book your rental car here!
Things to consider before deciding to drive in Albania
Let’s start with a few basics to help you decide whether to rent a car in Albania during your trip.
Do you need a car to get around Albania?
I always avoid renting a car during my trips when possible. If a country has a good public transport infrastructure, I much prefer to take trains or buses instead of hiring a car, as it’s usually cheaper and you don’t have to worry about fuel, insurance, or parking.
While planning my first trip to Albania, however, I quickly found that the country’s transport infrastructure was not yet robust enough to allow me to complete my itinerary with the time I had without a car. Though, when I returned to hike in the Albanian Alps earlier this summer, we did our trip completely without a rental car.
Most of Albania’s rail network has been dysfunctional for at least a decade, with the majority of the population relying on car and bus transport. You can definitely get around Albania without a car by using the bus system or minibuses – but the timings may be more unpredictable and it will take longer. You may also choose to base yourself in one area and take day trips from there with an organised tour.
In Albania, you cannot fully rely on punctuality, and you must learn to take things slow if you choose to travel this way. Fortunately, transport options are becoming easier to pre-book online, and you can use this website as a good resource to find buses, taxis, and minibuses to reach various parts of the country. It still won’t guarantee that your timings will be exact, but pre-booking can help avoid most of the stress around bus travel here.
If you have a tight itinerary, or not much time to spend in Albania to allow for the uncertainty of public transport, then I definitely recommend renting a car. It’s the easiest and most convenient way to visit the country, and you can often find great price deals, so it doesn’t have to break the bank either! It also allows you to make stops along the way when you want, so you can check out viewpoints and other sights spontaneously.
Quick tip: I rented a car in Albania with Enterprise and had a good experience with pick-up and drop-off in different locations. Book your rental car here!
Can tourists drive in Albania?
Yes – visitors in Albania can rent cars and drive, as long as you have the necessary documents required by the rental agency.
If you plan on driving your own car into Albania, you can also do so, although you must check documentation and car equipment requirements for yourself. Check this website for the requirements to drive a British car in Albania.
Click here to jump to the list of what you need to rent a car in Albania further down on this post.
If you’re planning a summer road-trip in Albania, check out my guide for where to stay in the Albanian Riviera.
You can also drive from Albania to Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, or Greece with permission from your rental company. Beware that there may be long waits at the borders at certain times of the day, as there are border checks when crossing into or out of the country.
Driving to Montenegro? Check out my guide on Everything You Need to Know Before Driving in Montenegro for First-timers!
Is it safe to drive in Albania as a tourist?
This is by far the most popular question I get whenever I share my experience of road-tripping across Albania.
There are many reports out there of people having unpleasant experiences while driving in Albania (or in the Balkans in general) and, in fact, the UK Government website even describes driving in Albania as potentially “very hazardous and often aggressive and erratic” – citing road death numbers as some of the highest in Europe.
I will say that if you are used to driving in a country where road rules are enforced and strictly followed as the norm (for example, in Germany), you may find it difficult to adjust to driving in Albania. Nonetheless, if you are aware of what to expect (as I will tell you throughout this post), you shouldn’t have much of a hard time on the road, as long as you drive carefully and defensively.
Despite the validity of the statements out there, driving in Albania is not the complete anarchy that it’s usually made out to be – though I would still recommend that you avoid driving at night as much as possible, as many roads are poorly lit and may be in poor condition. If you visit in peak summer, note that the roads will also be much busier than in the off season.
Using myself and my partner as example, both of us have held driver’s licenses for years but always lived in cities where we never drive in (I drive 2-3 times a year at most).
We are neither super experienced nor confident drivers, but we still chose to drive in Albania as our first time driving outside of our home country. We made it back in once piece (and without a scratch)!
Is Albania easy to drive around?
Albania is a right-hand drive country – you drive on the right and overtake on the left, like in most other European countries. If you are used to driving on the left-hand side of the road (like in the UK), driving in Albania may be more challenging for you.
However, you can count on Albania’s road rules to be very similar to those in most of Europe, at least officially. You simply have to be triple-aware at intersections and during other encounters with other drivers, as it is safer to always assume that others might not follow the rules as strictly.
When in doubt: stop, give right of way to others, and check twice before taking a turn or merging into a new lane. It’s also a good idea to stick to speed limits, regardless of how fast others are driving around you; if you feel like you’re holding up traffic, there are usually plenty of opportunities to stop at the side of the road briefly and let other cars through.
Something else that’s important to note regarding your own driving ability is that the majority of Albanian roads (even main roads along the coast) are mountain roads to some degree, because the country is very hilly. This means lots of uphill and downhill steep inclines, as well as tight curves with limited visibility.
If you are not a very confident or experienced driver, my number one tip is to rent an automatic car. This is what my partner and I did – it took away a lot of the stress from driving, and allowed us to fully pay attention to the road conditions and being able to react in case we needed to.
Albania only has three highways (A1, A2, and A3), and these were the only roads where we were able to drive fast in (up to 90-110km/h – 55-68mph). All other roads have varying speed limits, however, because many roads have steep inclines and tight curves, we often found ourselves and others driving between 40-60km/h (25-37mph) most of the time.
Tips for driving in Albania: everything you need to know
What are the car rules in Albania
For a deeper dive into Albania’s specific car rules, you can check this website. In short:
- Albania is a right-hand drive country – you drive on the right and overtake on the left, like in most other European countries.
- Cars in Albania must have their car lights on at all times when driving – the staff at the car rental company should help you ensure the settings are correct during pick-up.
- You can dial 112 in case of emergency – this number works anywhere in Europe, and operators can answer calls in the native language, English, or French.
- If you’re involved in a collision or any accident, you must remain in your car and wait until the police arrive. While I didn’t experience much road rage or any altercations, it is best to avoid confrontation with other drivers.
- Seat belts should be worn by passengers in all seats where a belt is available. Children up to 4 years of age must use an appropriate restraint in the back seat, while children up to 12 years old must also use a restraint in the front seat.
- The police can pull over cars and issue fines on the spot if an infraction is detected. The blood alcohol limit for all drivers is 0.01%, which can be tested by the police at their discretion, with applicable fines for those who refuse to be tested.
- National speed limits vary generally from 40km/h (25mph) in urban areas to 80km/h (50mph) in rural areas, and 90-110km/h (56-68mph) on highways. Though, it is not uncommon to see speed limits as low as 20-30km/h (12-18mph) on mountain roads, and you’ll only find the highest speed limits on the only three highways in Albania (A1, A2, and A3).
Road conditions: do you need a 4×4 in Albania?
If you follow the most popular touristic routes in Albania, the majority of roads will be paved and, for at least 95% of travellers, I wouldn’t consider it necessary to rent a (more expensive) 4×4 vehicle.
If you do want to venture by car in the Albanian Alps, or to other off-the-beaten-track remote areas, then yes, I’d recommend you get a 4×4. Several mountain roads that previously were touted as very dangerous (like the road to Theth) have recently been paved, but gravel and dirt roads are very common in rural areas.
The most important thing to remember is that your regular rental car insurance will be voided in case of accident or damage and you are suspected to have gone off-road (this is the case for most companies and similar in most countries). Off-roading is defined by any driving that happens on non-paved roads – not just in remote areas.
You will find that in some parts of Albania, even within the most developed and touristic parts, roads may not be in great condition, and sometimes a paved road may randomly turn into a dirt road, and then back to paved. You must be careful when driving around potholes and, if possible, you should avoid driving at night when roads may not be well-lit.
Sometimes, it’s just not possible to avoid an unpaved road, but try to avoid going onto gravel or dirt roads with your rental car as much as possible on your way to remote beaches and coves. It’s often better to park the car somewhere safe and walk or hike the rest of the way, unless you’re sure that the road will be in good condition.
It’s also a good idea to give your rental car a quick wash before returning it to the office – you should be able to find a quick car wash service for about 5 Euros.
We learned this lesson as our car was a little dusty when we dropped it off and the employee asked if we had gone off-roading. Now we always give our rental cars a quick rinse before drop-off, as it avoids doubts (is that a dirt speck or a scratch?), and it also shows that you’ve taken good care of the car.
Speed limits
National speed limits in Albania, as described in the previous section about road rules, generally vary from 40km/h (25mph) in urban areas to 80km/h (50mph) in rural areas, and 90-110km/h (56-68mph) on highways.
In reality, for locals, this is merely a suggestion; but as I explained earlier, the nature of many of Albania’s mountain roads won’t really allow for a lot of fast driving. When we road-tripped across Albania, we found ourselves and others often driving between 40-60km/h (25-37mph) on average.
Regardless of how fast others may drive, I would advise you to stick to the speed limits. Rental cars are easy to spot and may become a target if you are found speeding. Fortunately, we didn’t have any encounters with the police in Albania – but remember that they are allowed to fine you on the spot. Also, it is now more common for speed cameras and radars to be placed in certain stretches of the main roads in Albania.
My best tip: if you feel like you are holding up traffic (even if you’re sticking to the speed limit), briefly stop at the side of the road and let other cars through. We did this many times when we felt pressure from other cars behind us, and it helped reduce stress and avoid unnecessary speeding.
Overtaking
If you ask me, overtaking is a national sport in Albania. I am sure that, if my father, who’s driven for over 30 years in Western Europe, witnessed the Albanians’ approach to overtaking, his heart would skip three beats. Yet, it seems to be the norm here, so you must be aware of it.
Albanians will overtake you anywhere, no matter if it’s a tight curve, a steep mountain road with little to no visibility, at the edge of a cliff road, or if there’s a car coming towards them in the opposite direction. They will even overtake multiple cars at once. We witnessed a few near-misses where cars merged back in at the very last second, just about avoiding a collision with the car in the opposite direction.
I know it can feel disheartening to have other cars overtake you, especially if you’re a nervous driver (it feels like they’re saying you’re too slow and you’re holding up traffic). Do not feel this. Trust me, you could be driving at twice the speed limit and Albanians would still overtake you. You’re not the problem.
My best tip: If a car starts overtaking you, slow down gently so that they can get past you, and maintain a decent safety distance until they are back on the right-hand side lane. You do not want to compete with them, and you do not want to be too close to their rear if they merge back in abruptly.
Pedestrian crossings, traffic lights, and roundabouts
I realised that, after over a week of driving in Albania, I didn’t see any traffic lights outside of the capital city in Tirana. I bring this up to reinforce that you must be extra-careful at intersections and roundabouts. Always slow down in the event that a car may come from a secondary road without stopping, and never blindly assume that others will give you right of way.
Forget the use of indicators/blinkers by others as well; Why is it your business which way they’re going, anyway? If they are used, don’t blindly assume they are telling you the truth – indicating a left turn might mean they actually decided they now want to turn right, so it’s best to be prepared for anything.
Pedestrian (zebra) crossings also seem to be a relatively recent concept in Albania, and there doesn’t appear to be an agreement on how to approach them. As such, please cross roads with caution.
Do not expect cars to stop for you if you are only standing by the pedestrian crossing on the side of the road and not actually stepping on it – to drivers, you appear no different than the locals casually chit-chatting while standing on the side of the road. If you are starting to cross on one side of the road, it is also common for cars on the opposite direction to not stop until you reach the middle of the road. Again, always look both ways before proceeding, and never blindly assume that the drivers will stop for you.
Animals on the road
When driving in Albania you must also be specifically careful with animals potentially roaming free and wondering on the road. At times, you may get stuck behind shepherds gathering their herd of goats on the side of the road, or you may see unaccompanied stray dogs, cows, sheep, or horses.
By the way, Albanian dogs sleep HARD, and they don’t even flinch if you drive by them. They sleep everywhere and do it so soundly that at times I wondered if they were even breathing. I wish I could take naps like that!
Don’t trust Google Maps blindly
It’s fine to use Google Maps as a navigation tool in general for getting from one city to the next, as it generally recognises the main roads and most popular routes. However, in local areas, it’s not uncommon for Google Maps to tell you to drive down a flight of stairs, as it happened to us.
The best rule of thumb when using Google Maps in Albania is to not follow it blindly – check the way in front of you, and judge whether you want to trust its recommendation. We want to avoid recreating that episode from The Office where Michael drives into a lake because the GPS told him to.
If you want a better navigation tool option (and especially if you’re hiking in the Albanian Alps), your tool of choice should be the app Maps.me. It works incredibly well in Albania and you can also use it offline, which is a big plus!
For online navigation tools, don’t forget that EU roaming plans don’t work in Albania! I used an eSIM from Airalo which worked perfectly, even in the Alps, and was very convenient and easy to use from the moment we landed at the airport.
Use this link to get a discount on your Airalo eSIM (use code “NEWTOAIRALO15” for 15% off for new customers, and code “AIRALOESIM10” for 10% off for existing customers!)
Parking
At this point, you may not be surprised to hear that Albanian drivers aren’t very strict with following their parking rules either. Double- and triple-parking is common, as well as parking the car anywhere if they just felt like stopping to check out the nearest shop.
You will have to distinguish which cars are parked and which ones are only temporarily obstructing the road, as they will definitely not use their hazard lights (what are those for, anyway?). Just slow down, assess if it’s safe to go ahead, and overtake any cars that are blocking the street.
Having said this, we found it very easy to park for free in many places we visited in Albania, including in the historic town of Gjirokäster. If you’re creative enough to look on side streets, you can often find areas where you can park for free. However, in dense towns like Berat, Sarandë, and Vlorë, it can be difficult to find free parking, especially during the summer.
If you’re renting a car, it’s a good idea to make sure your accommodation offers free private parking for guests, so that you don’t have to worry about parking. It’s common for accommodations to have either a private garage or parking spots reserved for overnight guests.
If you are unlucky enough to get a parking ticket, you will need to find a post office and make the payment there. We didn’t have any issues with parking, so I cannot advise on specific amounts, but I’ve heard of people getting fined for as little as 6 Euros.
Can you sleep in your car in Albania?
Albania is a great destination for backpackers and campers, as it is one of the last few European countries where wild camping and free standing with a camper are completely legal!
If you’re looking for a more comfortable experience, there are plenty of designated campsites along the Albanian Riviera, as well as near towns. There are also plenty of restaurants and guesthouses that allow overnight parking and camping (for free or for a small fee), which are very popular in Theth and Valbonë, for example.
Gas / petrol stations and refuelling
When we picked up our car at the rental office, we asked the staff which gas/petrol stations were better or any that we should avoid. They said that they are all pretty much the same, which wasn’t a particularly helpful answer.
We dropped off our car in Sarandë and ended up refuelling in one of the local gas/petrol stations called “Kastrati”, which has a few stations across Albania. Many gas/petrol stations only accept cash, so be prepared to pay in cash if you have to.
Toll roads
Albania only has three highways (A1, A2, and A3), and out of those there are only tolls on the A1, in two locations. One of them is near the Kalimash tunnel, close to the border with Kosovo, and the other is on the Thumanë – Kashar section near the exit to Tirana Airport.
Nonetheless, should you drive by, it is possible to pay by cash or card – the toll charge for cars is between 2.50-5 Euros, and 1.40-2.50 Euros for motorcycles.
What do you need to rent a car in Albania?
Renting a car in Albania is not much different from renting a car anywhere else in Europe. Here are the requirements and the documents you need:
- Depending on the company and the type of vehicle, the minimum age to rent a car is between 18 and 23 years old.
- You can rent a car with a full and valid UK or EU driver’s license, or an International Diver’s Permit. You must have held your driver’s license for at least one year.
Note: Although car rental companies don’t require an International Diver’s Permit (IDP) for UK and EU citizens to rent a car, I have received reports of people who were stopped by the Albanian police and asked for an IDP. The police might fine you if you don’t have one, therefore it is recommended to get an IDP before driving in Albania.
- Most companies require a credit card for deposit – we met other travellers who did manage to rent a car without a credit card (Amex is not widely accepted) but struggled to do so. The value of the deposit varies by company (for us it was 600 Euros) and it can take up to a month to be refunded.
- You must get car hire excess insurance – you can get this from the rental company directly, or you can purchase it from a separate insurer. It is usually cheaper to purchase insurance beforehand, rather than signing up for cover at the time of pick-up.
You can hire a car from a number of different providers, and from private individuals and small operators in Albania. Once you arrive at Tirana Airport, there are several small rent-a-car stands from where you can rent or pick up rental vehicles. Remember that depending on the demand and time of year, prices can be much higher when renting a car last-minute, versus booking beforehand.
Nonetheless, it can also be very affordable! When travelling off-season, I’ve had friends spend less than 100 Euros to rent a car for a full week!
Quick tip: I rented a car in Albania with Enterprise and had a good experience with pick-up and drop-off in different locations. Book your rental car here!
Final words
Is it worth driving in Albania?
In my opinion, it is completely worth renting a car in Albania if you want to explore the country to the fullest in the easiest and most convenient way. There are some things to be aware of, and you must be careful, but after reading this guide you will be prepared to road-trip across the country.
Although you can find alternative ways to get around Albania, renting a car will give you the most flexibility for your plans. Driving across Albania north-to-south takes around 6 hours, and includes incredible spontaneous sightseeing opportunities!
If you are not a confident driver, or you would rather avoid renting a car, rest assured that you still can enjoy much of Albania’s beauty by using local buses and minibus transfers. Alternatively, you may choose to base yourself in one town and take organised day trips and tours to various sightseeing spots.
Here’s a few popular tours you may choose from:
Driving in other countries? Check out my guides:
Planning to drive in Albania and want to be prepared? Pin this post to save it for later!
